When it was new, Harlech Castle was whitewashed to make it stand out on its seaside crag

 Tony Bowerman explores the amazing fact that Wales has more castles for its size than any other country in the world

OF ALL WALES’ 400 OR SO HISTORIC CASTLES, the most formidable and impressive are undoubtedly the ‘Iron Ring’ of fortresses built by Edward I to encircle Gwynedd in North Wales — the last bastion of Welsh resistance to the hated English overlords