Statue of Saint Carannog, overlooking Llangrannog, on the Ceredigion coast
Fiona Barltrop explores one of the most dramatic coastal routes on the Ceredigion section of the Wales Coast Path
WHEN I FIRST WALKED THE CEREDIGION COAST PATH (NOW PART OF THE WALES COAST PATH) a few years ago – at least as much of it as was possible to walk at the time, since some sections had yet to be completed – there was one stretch of coastline, in particular, I thought would prove especially fine when the trail had been finished. Indeed, I made a point of mentioning this in a subsequent feature on the Coast Path published in TGO.
Having been back again recently I’m glad to report my expectations have been duly realised. I now rate that stretch – between Cwmtydu and Llangrannog – as one of the best of the whole Path.
But it took a few days’ perseverance before I was able to appreciate it properly since a spell of very wet weather rather spoilt plans…At last, on the penultimate day of my short visit, the sky cleared and the sun shone and I was off with a spring in the step.
The idea was to walk from New Quay to Aberporth (via Cwmtydu and Llangrannog) and catch a bus back. However, since I was staying at Llainfran just a mile or so up the road from Cwmtydu and wanted to avoid a return car journey to New Quay (not to mention the car park fee), and was concerned not to miss the last bus, the sensible thing was to walk from where I was, then tack on the New Quay to Cwmtydu section at the end. Unconventional maybe, but it worked well.
Cut into the formidably steep cliff-side is the new stretch of path, which looks as if it might be slightly unnerving for some but is, in fact, broad enough to stride out along without unease.
Cwmtydu and the Wales Coast Path
Twenty minutes downhill and I was at the small National Trust cove of Cwmtydu, and soon heading south on the Wales Coast Path. The latest OS Landranger I have (remember, that was back in 2007) didn’t show this new section of the Path – though that will no doubt be rectified in future editions – but it’s well signed and navigation couldn’t be easier. Once on top the views back over Cwmtydu and to the cliffs beyond are splendid, but even more impressive very shortly are the views ahead.
Cut into the formidably steep cliff-side is the new stretch of path, which looks as if it might be slightly unnerving for some but is, in fact, broad enough to stride out along without unease. In the distance is the Lochtyn headland and the small tidal island of Ynys Lochtyn – the distinctive outline used as the logo for the Ceredigion Coast Path signs.
Looking down onto Llangrannog beach on the Ceredigion coast
Further on along the Wales Coast Path the somewhat incongruous dry ski slope over to the left belongs to the Urdd centre, which provides activities for youngsters.
Down in picturesque Llangrannog, the tide well out exposing the fine beach, I paused briefly for refreshment before heading on south-west, enjoying another new (since my last visit) section of Coast Path between Penbryn and Tresaith. The bus duly caught, I walked the final few miles from New Quay to Cwmtydu in the last of the light, well satisfied by an excellent, highly scenic day.
Fiona Barltrop
This article first appeared in The Great Outdoors (TGO) magazine in September 2011, and is re-published here with the author’s permission. Copyright © Fiona Barltrop 2011. All rights reserved.
Fiona Barltrop is a freelance outdoor writer and photographer, with a particular love for coastal walking. She has been a regular contributor to UK walking magazines, including The Great Outdoors and Country Walking, for many years. She is also a member of the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild and available for commissions.
Contact: fiona2barltrop@googlemail.com
Books and maps for this part of the coast
