Cadair Idris is lit by the dawn sun, high above the Mawddach Estuary

Fiona Barltrop takes to the hills above the Mawddach Estuary, from Penmaenpool to Fairbourne on the Wales Coast Path

MANY A TIME when traversing the seldom-walked western half of the Cadair Idris escarpment I’ve sat atop a superb little grassy viewpoint on Craig Las (or Tyrrau Mawr, as it’s also known) and gazed down upon the Cregennan Lakes, embedded like jewels in the land far below. The view from up here takes in the beautiful Mawddach estuary, crossed by Barmouth Bridge and backed by the southern Rhinogs, with the long slender arm of the Llyn Peninsula in the distance.

On a fine sunny day when the hills are clear there has to be a compelling reason not to head for the heights – too windy, too hot, too many people maybe – but in truth, an exploration of these foothills is rewarding enough not to need excuse.

Penmaenpool and the Mawddach Trail

Once more based at idyllically situated Maes y Wennol in the Dysynni valley – owned and let by the incomparably hospitable couple who farm the surrounding area, including the slopes of Cadair Idris, and know this land intimately – I could easily have walked over the hills to the Cregennan Lakes, barely a few miles away, and indeed have done so in the past. (The bridleway that ascends Mynydd Pen-rhiw from nearby Bodilan Fach farm provides some of the loveliest views anywhere, yet I have never met another walker, and nor is it mentioned in any guidebook.)

Today, however, I chose to drive round to the Mawddach side of the hills, pausing as I crossed the little bridge over the Afon Cadair near its confluence with the Dysynni to photograph (yet again) the delectable scene, a view which so often stops me in my tracks. Then I continued down the valley, along the coast road to Fairbourne and caught the bus to Penmaenpool, where the toll bridge crosses the Mawddach. In the past this was one of the estuary’s main shipbuilding sites; the industry slowed down with the coming of the railway, and then came to an end. The railway, too, ceased to be in the 1960s. Today the Mawddach Trail follows the old track bed providing an easy level walk – or cycle ride – and beautiful views with little effort.

“Cregennan Lakes provided fine views of the imposing northern escarpment of the Cadair Idris range. Even better views were to be had from the top of the south-western end of Pared y Cefn hir, which I couldn’t resist climbing.”

Across the hills to Cregennan Lakes

After a look in the old signal box, now a wildlife centre and observation post owned by the National Park, I followed the Trail for a couple of miles or so to the Gwynant river. It was tempting just to continue the pleasant amble alongside the estuary, but instead I turned inland and headed upstream beside the tumbling waters as far as Kings YH, dappled sunlight filtering through the trees of the wooded valley.

Thereafter, back in the open, a grassy path below Pared y Cefn hir leading to the Cregennan Lakes provided fine views of the imposing northern escarpment of the Cadair Idris range. Even better views were to be had from the top of the south-western end of Pared y Cefn hir, which I couldn’t resist climbing.

The evening light was particularly lovely as I descended from the lakes: a verdant foreground of fields and trees against a golden backdrop. Back down at the Mawddach I eschewed the Trail (a viewless tree-enclosed stretch between Arthog and Morfa Mawddach) and followed the footpath beside the estuary back to Fairbourne, the last leg parallel to the miniature railway, which the steam trains had been puffing along earlier in the day.