Nant Gwrtheyrn’s old quarrying houses, now a busy Welsh-language Centre on the Llyn Peninsula

On the Llyn Peninsula, beside the Wales Coast Path, lies a hidden valley. Here, during the Dark Ages 1,500 years ago, came Vortigern, the disgraced leader of the Romano-British, to hide from his enemies. Tony Bowerman came along later.

AS WE LEAVE THE TINY POST OFFICE in Llithfaen they lock the door behind us. It is two minutes past midday, yet the light is an ethereal, luminous grey. “Good afternoon”, calls a lilting voice through the door glass. The ‘Closed’ sign swings to a slow halt.
An old man, well-wrapped against the damp, leaves just before us. He carries a