The popular seaside town of Aberdyfi (Aberdovey) on the Snowdonia coast

Fiona Barltrop enjoys a fine stretch of the Wales Coast Path along the Tarren foothills

THE EXCELLENT RIDGE WALK over the unfrequented Tarren hills, which are situated in the southernmost part of the Snowdonia National Park, is an old favourite of mine.

I always walk it as a linear route, taking a short bus ride out from Aberdovey to Pennal then heading north up the grassy slopes to join the ridge east of Tarrenhendre and continuing along it back to Aberdovey.

Inland to Machynlleth

But where I take the high road from Pennal to Aberdovey, the Wales Coast Path, which has to detour well inland – as far as Machynlleth, in fact – to get round the Dyfi estuary, takes the low road. Well, low-ish.

For with the A493 hugging the riverside, the Wales Coast Path instead follows tracks and quiet lanes along the foothills of the Tarrens to the north. Though hardly a ‘coast’ path, like other upland stretches of the Wales Coast Path it provides some lovely views. The track named Panorama Walk on the OS Explorer map is called that for good reason!

Like other upland stretches of the Wales Coast Path it provides some lovely views. The track named Panorama Walk on the OS Explorer map is called that for good reason!

Aberdyfi to Tywyn

I’d walked the stretch a couple of times in damp, cloudy conditions when the hills were shrouded, but didn’t feel I had really done it justice. A hot day when closer proximity to (and the sight of) water was a more appealing prospect than toiling up the dry hills provided a good opportunity to sample it in fine weather.

With considerably less ascent involved, I decided to extend the distance beyond Aberdovey to Tywyn, the last few miles on the flat and right by the sea (a hoped-for swim very much in mind…). Conveniently, the bus which links Aberdovey and Pennal starts at Tywyn, where there’s plenty of parking, especially along the seafront.

The initial stretch of the Wales Coast Path from Pennal loops to the south of the main road, taking you through the well landscaped grounds of a holiday resort. Beyond the bungalows a track, initially bordered by tall, pretty pink rosebay willowherb, soon provided some lovely views over the River Dyfi.

‘Panorama Walk’

Once back across the A493, the route headed uphill along a quiet no-through road, continuing along a track (which becomes the Panorama Walk), in due course affording some more fine views over the Dyfi estuary. Beyond Bwlch Farm I was back on a quiet lane again, this time the beautiful views to the north, rather than south, over Cwm Maethlon, aka Happy Valley. Apart from a few folk at the resort, I’d seen no one, and didn’t until I reached Aberdovey (following a quiet lane down to it rather than the official Wales Coast Path). A popular seaside village, it was duly busy on this very warm day with people variously queuing for ice cream, relaxing on the beach, paddling in the water and eating fish & chips.

After a refill of my water bottle I continued along the beach all the way back to Tywyn. With the tide well out, the firm sand made for good walking. Despite spotting a very large jellyfish on the beach at one point, I wasn’t going to let it deter me from a much looked-forward-to swim, which I enjoyed just before reaching Tywyn.

A lovely sunset from the promenade ended the day perfectly.